Skin to the end of the road, across Valdez Glacier Pond, and up Camicia Creek. Entrance to Camicia Creek, as seen from the Glacier Pond:
The first couple of miles going up Camicia Creek are exposed to continuous slide paths. Don't ascend when there is new snow or any chance of sun induced slides. There are a couple of narrow sections with open water that vary from season to season.
Continue skinning east-northeast up Camicia glacier. While the glacier does bend southeast towards your objective, you need to continue past this due to the continuous crevasse field on that portion of the glacier. Head southish off the glacier, skinning and booting from approximately 3800' to 4800' as shown on the topo below:
Continue southish. Your objective is now in view, pictured in the sun below. Note the bergschrund guarding the bottom of the line. Note the crevasses on looker's right. As always, note that you should be making safety related decisions, and there are numerous ways to get yourself maimed or killed on the way up and down throughout this route. The shot below was taken on a tour I did in 2012.
You avoid the bergschrund on your way up by going over the ridge, back up to the ridge, and continuing to boot as shown by the red line above. You're skiing down the triangular face that is mostly in the sun. Make sure and carry enough speed to get over the bergschrund, which you no doubt wisely scouted from below. The summit is another 50' vertical or so from the top of the ski line, and it is a sketchy exposed traverse to get to the summit from the top of the line.
After skiing the north face, cut skier's right back to the way you came up. The farther you continue down the glacier before cutting right, the worse the crevasses get. From about 5900' ski down the way you came up. Don't dally in the slide paths in Camicia Creek, which are most likely now getting baked by the sun. If you take the right route you can pretty much ski down all the way back to the pond without any climbing in the middle. The meat of this line - the north face - is 1000' vertical at 49 inclinometer measured degrees with a nnw exposure. The total climb and ski, as the label on the topo so helpfully points out, is slightly over 7000'
Pictures from the route, as climbed and skied on March 15, 2013:
Stu at the top of the line
Looking down on East Peak
Ice tunnel where Camicia Creek turns into Camicia Glacier
Once you're on Camicia Glacier, note plenty of other fine skiing to be had. Looking on the topo, 7193 is the highest point for miles in any direction, and that north face is pretty quality, but don't be dissuaded from exploring other fun stuff. Conditions permitting of course.
